About Marcia Gagliardi

Recent Posts by Marcia Gagliardi

San Francisco: Old Mandarin Islamic Restaurant

Every year, my friends and I like to get together for our “Lonely Hearts/Singles Scene” Valentine’s Day dinner. I think we end up having more fun than most couples that night. In fact, I know so—the only thing the evening hinges on is having good food and wine, because we already know the company will rock. We usually go out for a Chinese banquet dinner of some sort so we can dine posse-style, and don’t have to witness a sea of two-top tables flourished with roses and the obligatory flutes of Champagne.

This year we decided to roll deep in the Outer Sunset/Parkside and hit up ~OLD MANDARIN ISLAMIC RESTAURANT~. I’m talking Vicente and 42nd Avenue in San Francisco, dog. You definitely want to make a reservation—the space is on the petite side, and I’m going to recommend you show up with at least a posse of six or lucky eight so you can plow through that menu like Genghis freaking Khan.

It’s a family-run and Northern Chinese restaurant that’s been open since 1997—we had papa Yang take our order, and his totally lively and fired-up son Shuai steered us to a few more gems once he saw we weren’t afraid of da spice. You’ll see a number of hot pots bubbling away in the dining room—and what makes them unusual here is the copper pot they use—but we opted for a slew of dishes instead. We had such a notable meal that we’ll assuredly return for the hot pot on another chilly night.

You’ll see the Peking beef pancake ($8.50) on many tables, with thin and crisp layers of dough with a bubbled exterior containing pieces of seasoned beef and onion within—it was teetering on the good side of greasy, although a P90X fanatic would staunchly disagree.

Our table saddled up for the “extremely hot pepper” dish ($10.95), which was a combination of five kinds of pepper (both fresh and dry), plus little pieces of chicken and egg. What a dish, full of flaming glory. Bring on the hurt. A few folks broke a serious and slightly concerning sweat, but it tasted so good that they’d keep coming back for more tongue-flogging punishment. We adored the peppers as a condiment to everything else we ate, even if it meant occasionally taking a break to let your mouth cool off for a hot minute. We found the perfect foil in the parsley bean curd ($6.95), soft and fluffy tofu infused with sesame oil and cilantro leaves. A total table pleaser, for many reasons. We were told next time to order the onion pancake ($7.95) and layer the hot mofo pepper inside, brilliant!

Due to the Northern Chinese/Beijing-style of the cuisine here, lamb figures prominently, along with a very aromatic cumin, which the restaurant imports from China. You are not here for egg rolls and lemon chicken—stay on track, friend. Our table went postal for the thinly sliced pieces of the Mandarin lamb ($10.95)—so much so that we ordered the dish for another round, bring it ON. It’s wildly fragrant with cumin, spiked with garlic and chiles, and tangled with pieces of green bell pepper and onion. Even those at the table who said they weren’t big on lamb or cumin were spotted scooping up the last little fatty bites off the plate. Uh huh.

We also loaded up our table with the West Lake lamb dumplings ($7.95), thick-skinned and rustic handmade dumplings with a savory, juicy, and meaty center—anoint them with a few dollops of black vinegar, and again, make sure the extremely hot pepper is nearby for full, mad flavor maximization. The stir-fried balls with shrimp ($9.95)—little flour balls we were calling Mandarin gnocchi, almost nearing the doughy texture of mochi—proved to be one of the milder dishes. Let’s just say we preferred the dishes with more personality.

Per the very strong recommendation of papa (the subtext was: “You better order this or you’re stupid”), we ponied up for the piping hot bowl of braised lamb ribs ($16.95/$26.95), which were so very tender and homey, but the rich sauce was ultimately quite mild (comparatively) on the seasoning front. Still a pleasant dish, a chipped clay pot full of fall-off-the-bone goodness. The ribs were delicious paired with the spicy garlic eggplant ($8.95), so silky. Wow, yes mom, we had vegetables on the table.

Just when we were close to throwing in the towel, the son started to tell us about the “crack fish.” As soon as you start tossing the term crack around in the dining room, hell, I am gonna pick up what you’re throwing down. The “crack fish” actually has the innocuous name of steamed sliced fish ($19.95) on the menu, but what you end up getting is a bubbling cauldron of sliced rock cod over a bed of Chinese head cabbage, all hiding under a small lake of chile oil and sesame seeds. Sichuan pepper galore. (Wait, I can’t feel my face!) It definitely lived up to its name—we were fishing for pieces of cod in the lake of fire until the very end like a cracker looking for a popped rock on the street.

The finale was a plate of the fried sweet cakes ($7.95), which the family actually styled us with as a gift—so unexpected and kind. (Maybe it was our prize for clearing our plates and surviving the pepper fire storm.) The rice flour buns had a sticky and crackly sugar exterior, with a thick filling of red bean paste, plum, and nuts. Quite delicious after all that mad spice. The cakes were quickly followed by a plate of cool, sliced grapefruit, the checkered flag of our culinary tour de force.

Even though the restaurant has Islamic in the name and serves halal meat (no pork), there’s still Tsingtao offered on the menu. I’m not going to quibble with that. We opted to go the BYOB route, and brought a bunch of wines—from sparkling to rosé—to get us through the meal (we spotted some other tables with some creative BYOB beverages—let’s just say people are funny).

Yeah, it’s a trek to get out there, but the family is very welcoming and kind (although you may be ignored for a little while if they’re slammed, whatever, just keep drinking), and the dishes were above and beyond. And here’s the best part: when all was said and done, we were out of there for $25 a head, and that figure includes leaving a hefty tip. And even though you might freak out with the CASH ONLY sign, they actually take credit cards. There’s also a private dining room for dining room spillover, or maybe you want to make it your own rumpus room. So the next time you want to get your crew together and feast like cumin kings and pepper queens, here’s your spot.

San Francisco: New Haunts For Breakfast, Brunch & Lunch

Some new eats in San Francisco, CA for your radar: first, the Mission’s fabulous empanada maker, ~VENGA EMPANADAS~ is now open for breakfast, starting at 8:30 am. Swing by for a breakfast empanada fresh out of the oven, or a medialuna-Argentine croissant in plain, chocolate, or membrillo (quince). And this week only: buy a breakfast empanada and get a free cup of Rodger’s coffee. 443 Valencia St. at 15th St., 415-552-5895.

A tablehopper reader tipped me off about the “freaking amazing brunch” they enjoyed over the weekend at ~CEDAR HILL~ in the Marina: “Smoked bbq hash, Deep fried french toast, smokehouse breakfast for the gluttons. Plus, bbq michelada with tall boy of pbr.” Here’s the menu, which also includes huevos rancheros, biscuits and gravy, and a breakfast sandwich. Eater mentions brunch is served Sat-Sun 10am-3pm. 3242 Scott St. at Chestnut, 415-834-5403.

Over in Hayes Valley, ~BAR JULES~ is opening for lunch on Tuesdays starting next week, on February 21st at 11:30 am.

In Dogpatch, ~SERPENTINE~ is doing Taco Tuesdays for lunch, currently serving a trio of tacos with pan-seared true cod, green mango slaw, radish, cilantro, lime, and tomatillo salsa for $10 (and there’s a $5 margarita to go with them).

Details on the Upcoming District Oakland

District in SoMa is getting close to opening a second location in Old Oakland California, ~DISTRICT OAKLAND~ in the former Levende East spot. Partners Jon D’Angelica, Chris Vance, and Ryan Vance—working with wine director and sommelier Caterina Mirabelli and executive chef Bob Cina—plan to open by March or April. The historic building (updated by Arcsine Architecture and Bellusci Designs) will feature a large horsehoe bar made with reclaimed Brazilian barnwood (peroba rosa), and there will also be a wine and whiskey tower that features the building’s original doorway header from 1878. Additional features: sofa beds in the lounge, a video wall showing vintage movies, a mural by Brian Barneclo, and a rotating display of works by local artists. There will be room for 85 seated, plus the option of sidewalk seating.

Mirabelli’s wine list will offer over 40 selections by the glass and in tasting flights, and over 300 reserve bottles. Since this location features a full liquor license, there will also be 40 craft whiskeys on the list, a cocktail menu with updates on classics (mint juleps and Sazeracs), and 16 beers on draught.

Cina’s menu (think contemporary California with French and Latin influences) will include wine-friendly bites ($4-$7) like mushroom pâté en croûte and chèvre-stuffed Peppadew peppers, small plates ($9-$17) like Moroccan-spiced lamb meatballs, pizzettas ($10-$16), and an extensive cheese program with housemade charcuterie. And like the SF location, a daily happy hour will offer $1 oysters. Hours will be Mon-Fri 4pm-close, Sat 5pm onward. 827 Washington St. at 9th St., Oakland, 510-272-9110.

Two Bay Area Food Events with Big Side Benefits

Everyone loves a good cause—here’s a couple food-related ones for ya. Local startup ZeroCater invites you to ~FOOD-FOR-ALL~ on Wednesday February 22nd, 6:30pm-8:30pm, their official pre-party for Taste of the Nation San Francisco, with 100% of proceeds going to Share Our Strength. You’ll get tastes from Radius, Azalina’s, After Osha, Sataysfied, The Missing Link, Peasant Pies, Queen’s Louisiana Po-Boy Cafe, Bona Restaurant, Three Babes Bakeshop, Belgian Street Waffles, and Peko-Peko, plus beer and wine from Lagunitas Brewing Company and Toasted Head Wines. And for a bit of fun, enter the restaurant review writing contest from Google Places—the prize is a $150 dinner at any local restaurant. $10. 875 Sansome St., 1st Floor, at Broadway.

Show some love for the ~ALAMEDA COUNTY COMMUNITY FOOD BANK~ on Thursday March 1st, when you can join other volunteers in sorting fresh produce and packaging food-drive donations, putting together thousands of meals for hungry families. The evening includes refreshments. Register online to reserve your spot; space is limited. 5:30pm-8:30pm. 7900 Edgewater Dr. at Oakport, Oakland, California.

Cheese & Charity in California

Welcome, once again, to the wonderful world of artisan cheese: now in its sixth year, ~CALIFORNIA’S ARTISAN CHEESE FESTIVAL~ will offer quite the lineup of local farm tours, grand tasting events, beer and wine pairings, and cooking demos. The festival’s homebase will be the Sheraton Sonoma County in Petaluma, with lots of events happening off site. Get your tickets now ‘cause many events are already sold out (you cheese phreeks, you). Taste, learn, appreciate, and repeat all weekend long, March 23rd-25th.

See the full schedule online with all its opportunities to try limited-production, rare artisan cheeses and to learn about the art of making cheese from local and sustainable farmers and cheesemakers.

The Friday farm tours are a chance to look behind the scenes at local farms and creameries, and they sell out fast. Slots are still open for Farm to Creamery: Two Sebastopol Dairies ($75). This tour takes you from relative newcomer Bleating Heart to the 40-year-old Redwood Hill Farm, the first certified humane goat dairy in the U.S. New this year is the Lagunitas Brewery tour and cheese-pairing dinner ($135), which includes a six-course dinner prepared by chef Danny Mai (Tolay Restaurant).

Saturday is seminar day with local industry experts, chefs, and cheesemakers leading interactive seminars and demos. All seminars include catered lunch, nice. Topics include The Cheesemaker and the Chef: Milk’s Mysteries Explored from the Creamery and Into the Kitchen with Peggy Smith and Sue Conley of Cowgirl Creamery, Cheese Making Workshop: Fresh Cultured Cheeses, and even The Hows and Whys of Fermented Foods. $65/session.

Saturday evening, 6pm-10pm, it’s showdown time at the Grand Cheese Tasting and Best in Cheese Competition. Top Bay Area chefs highligt artisan cheeses in their dishes, from soufflés to sandwiches; you vote for your favorite. Wineries and breweries are in on the action too. $75.

Another new event this year is the very tasty-sounding VIP brunch Sunday at 9:30am: Bacon, Bubbles and Brunch + More Great Cheeses with Duskie Estes. Nosh on a cheese-filled breakfast featuring Black Pig bacon, sip on Iron Horse bubbly, and enjoy a cooking demonstration with the chef-owner of Zazu, Bovolo, and The Black Pig Meat Co. $100, includes VIP access to the Marketplace.

Don’t forget the big one, the expanded Artisan Cheese Tasting and Marketplace on Sunday starting at noon. Sample the wares of 65 artisan producers, winemakers, brewers, and chefs, and discover new cheese products, books, and recipes. Enjoy more cooking demos with wine country chefs, and fill up your ACF insulated cheese tote bag with your faves to take home. $45.

Wanna stay the night? There are discounted rates on Sheraton rooms. The Artisan Cheese Festival donates 10% of all ticket proceeds to Sonoma Land Trust, Marin Agricultural Land Trust, Petaluma Future Farmers of America, California Artisan Cheese Guild, and Redwood Empire Food Bank. Sheraton Sonoma County-Petaluma, 745 Baywood Dr. at Lakeville Hwy., Petaluma.

Get That Beer Flowin’ In San Francisco

10 straight days of beer-filled festivities: that’s what you have to look forward to for ~SAN FRANCISCO BEER WEEK 2012~, February 10th-19th. As always, the schedule is filled to the brim with beer tastings, beer release parties, and food pairing dinners all over town—and outside of town—so check out the full schedule online. We’ll just mention a couple highlights to get ya started.

The beer starts flowing on Friday February 10th with the SF Beer Week Opening Celebration at the Concourse Exhibition Center in SoMa, hosted by the San Francisco Brewers Guild. From 6pm-10pm, 50 NorCal breweries, from new nanobrewers to craft brew legends, will be pouring unlimited samples of new, rare, and classic beers into your commemorative glass. You can also purchase from a range artisan choices and food options, and there’ll be live music. Tickets are online for $65. 635 8th St. at Brannan.

The ~MONK’S KETTLE~ is hosting events throughout SF Beer Week, notably the second annual Dinner of the Trappists, an extensive seven-course dinner paired with beers from the monks of the seven Trappist breweries. Starting at 6:30pm on February 13th, you’ll have a rare chance to try beers like the Westvleteren 12 (not available in the U.S.) alongside a course like duck fat-roasted beets with lamb’s lettuce and fromage blanc croquette. Other courses include seared spot prawn with roasted chanterelles and bison two ways; see the full menu here. $195 per person, plus tax and gratuity. Reserve by email.

For Valentine’s Day, Tuesday February 14th, visit Monk’s Kettle for a “Sweet and Sour Valentine,” featuring a sour beer known as Cantillon Rosé de Gambrinus. Rosé like the wine, yes, but it’s a beer. They’ll also have sweeter offerings, like Dieu du Ciel! Aphrodite, to represent the other end of the spectrum.

In honor of SF Beer Week, ~ANCHOR & HOPE~ is holding a Shrimp Boil on Thursday February 16th, 4:30pm-7pm. It’s an all-you-can-eat, all-you-can-draft kinda thing with three brewers (Anchor Brewing, 21st Amendment, and Pacific Brewing Laboratory) and 16 of their drafts. $30. Give ‘em a call to RSVP: 415-501-9100.

Country’s First Carbon-Neutral Cafe Opens in Oakland, California

According to a tweet from ABC7 News, I learned the ~NOBLE CAFE~, reportedly the country’s first 100% carbon-neutral coffee shop, is now open in The Grand apartment building in Oakland. Although I’d like to shoot their website designer who makes me feel like I’m having an eye exam every time I click something on their website, the site mentions that the coffee is from Blue Bottle, with tea from Rishi. You can get French press, pour over, or siphon coffee, plus espresso drinks. There are pastries and some breakfast items, but an all-organic lunch menu will launch later. Open Mon-Fri 7am-7pm. You can read more about the café’s green practices on their Facebook page. 100 Grand Ave., Suite 111 at Valdez, Oakland, 510-444-3800.

And it’s already underway, but the second annual ~OAKLAND RESTAURANT WEEK~ is on now through Sunday January 29th. You can try a bunch of special prix-fixe menus priced at $20, $30, and $40, with drink specials often included. Check it out!

What’s For Lunch? Criolla Kitchen’s Po’ Boys

While the crew at ~CRIOLLA KITCHEN~ ramps up on their redesign, they decided to open for lunch in the meantime, serving a variety of po’ boys made with local and sustainable ingredients. Starting this Wednesday, you can swing by for a sandwich in three different sizes (shorty, full, or loaf). Choices include the Rich’Boy ($13/$20/$40) with braised American Wagyu beef and foie gras mayo; fried Louisiana Gulf shrimp ($10/$15/$30), caught and served fresh every day; and the pulled-smoked ham hock salad ($8/$12/$24) with cold ham hock, mayo, pickled okra, and Creole mustard. I know, they sound gooooood. There are 11 in all, with fried chicken, fried oysters, grilled andouille sausage, and more.

And based on the famed New Orleans sandwich’s famous history (they got their name because they were originally offered up for the striking street car motor men and conductors during the strike of 1929), Criolla is offering a 25% discount on all sandwiches to any street car and cable car drivers in San Francisco. It’s just counter service, but catering is available (yeah, I’d like to cater my office—army of one). Sandwiches served Mon-Fri 11am-3pm.

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