About Megan McDonough

Recent Posts by Megan McDonough

Cathedrals, Statues, Legends, Nature & Cafes In & Around Bogota

While Bogota is a huge city with endless things to see and do, it’s the neighboring towns that make the list for bohemian traveler worthy destinations.

La Candelaria

Most travelers passing through Bogota stay in the historic downtown district of La Candelaria. Partly due to a surplus of affordable hostels located here, it’s also the center for art galleries, museums and cultural centers. Museums worth checking out include Museo Botero, Museo del Oro (Gold Museum), Casa de Moneda and Museo Nacional. Bike tours are also offered through La Candelaria and other parts of the city. Bogota is the third most street-art heavy city in South America and this is best seen by foot.

Monserrate

Ask any local and they will tell you to make the trek to Monserrate, the highest peak in Bogota. The adventurous have the option of hiking up and down the mountain but the more common route is by cable railway. Once you reach the top, there is a chapel, a market and various restaurants and cafes. The market vendors sell traditional beverages with Aguardiente and typical street food. It rains quite frequently in Bogota so make sure plan your visit on a clear day for the best possible view.

Chia & La Calera

Both located north of Bogota, Chia and La Calera are two towns with endless personality. On the dirt roads leading you to La Calera you find traditional style restaurants and outdoor activities until you find the main hub of Calera. Chia is home to Colombia’s most famous restaurant, Andres Carne de Res. The landscape alone is a vast difference from the city building that comprise Bogota.

Guatavita

Another small town outside of the city is Guatavita which has a very interesting story. The town was literally relocated to make room for a huge reservoir aimed at generating electricity. The town offers a slew of restaurants, market shops and a spectacular view of the reservoir and surrounding mountains. A short drive away is the Lake Guatavita which is definitely worth a visit to learn more about the lake’s Legend of El Dorado.

Guasca

Not far from Guatavita is an indigenous town called Guasca. Here you will find the typical Spanish-style main square, old-fashioned bars and restaurants and impressive ancient statues. There is not too much to do in Guasca but it’s an ideal example of local like outside of Bogota. Families gather here to listen to music, eat desserts from street vendors and enjoy the simpler things in life.

Zipaquirá

Home of the Salt Cathedral, Zipaquirá is not terribly far from Bogota. There are daily tour operators that take travelers to and from the salt mines providing information about the history of the town along the way. Although a heavily-visited tourist attraction and even a wedding location, it is worth fitting this half-day trip into your schedule . The Salt Cathedral is open daily for visitors and generally costs COP$17,000.

Bogota’s Andres Carne De Res

As part of my Colombian initiation, every local I talked to suggested eating at one very special restaurant: Andres Carne de Res. Although there is a location located in Bogota, the famous and original location is in a neighboring town called Chia. Coming from New York, I’m used to my fare share of craziness but nothing could prepare me for the decor that lines literally every wall, floor and ceiling of Andres Carde de Res.

About thirty minutes after sitting down at our table, we were greeted by a band playing instruments and singing a song in Spanish that I couldn’t quite understand. My boyfriend and I were then chosen as “honorary guests of the house” and I was given a crown to wear, thoroughly exciting my inner 5 year-old self.  We then put our dancing skills to the test when the band instructed us to put on a show for the rest of the customers.

Part of my being crowned Colombian Queen was doing a litter dance at our table. Although the entire charade is something one might find at a tourist trip, the majority of people who come to Andres Carne de Res are locals. This is partly due to it being outside Bogota in Chia. An interesting addition to the restaurant is an outside bar specifically designed as a hangout for the celebrity bodyguards.

The menu itself is more like a book or special edition magazine so deciding exactly what to order was a bit tricky. I stuck for my favorite cocktail – Chile’s Pisco Sour and for the main course, we ordered one of their famous meat dishes. There was also red wine, a milkshake tropical cocktail and a whole lot of dancing involved throughout the night. By the time we were finally ready to leave, I felt vey much like a Botero painting.

Food Guide: Eating Your Way Through Colombia

It’s nearly impossible to visit Colombia without eating more than you’d like to admit. Here is a local guide to Colombian food for the avant-garde traveler.

One of the most notorious restaurants in Colombia, Andres Carne de Res does not disappoint. They are especially known for their selection of meat dishes but there are a number of vegetarian options. The original restaurant is located in Chia but there is a second location in Bogota. Eating here is more of an experience than anything else. Plan at least a few hours and come hungry.

In the countryside outside of La Calera, I was able to experience a traditional Colombian breakfast dish called Calentao, consisting of scrambled eggs, beans, potatoes and vegetables. We also tried a few corn tortillas called arepas, alternating between sweet and sour flavors. My favorite part about eating at this small and very local restaurant was getting to watch the cooking process.

Wherever I go, street food is generally on my mind. While you can find vendors just about anywhere, this photograph was taken in a neighboring town called Guatavita, one of several aboriginal towns in Colombia. Common foods are sausage, potatoes and corn. All are heavily salted or buttered but despite the added elements of unhealthiness, these foods are a good representation of Colombian local cuisine.

Anyone who has read my previous posts on South America are well aware of my newfound love of empanadas. While the small town of Concepción (part of Tucumán, Argentina) is my top pick for empanadas, I thoroughly enjoyed the ones I tasted in Bogota. The consistency is different, but that’s true with any country in Latin America. There are a number of restaurants in the Santa Barbara part of town in the north of Bogota, which is where this particular picture was taken.

Colombia is known for its coffee but things aren’t always what they seem. Since the majority of the good coffee produced in the country is exported, it’s more likely that you be let down by the quality served at most local joints. However, if you go to a coffee house, you will still get to sample the good stuff. This cappuccino I ordered at Café Color Café on Calle del Embudo had sprinkles, which is hands down the most exciting cup of Joe I’ve tasted.

It’s often the most least expected local restaurants that end up leaving the biggest impression. When I stumbled into this small pub also located in La plazoleta del Chorro de Quevedo in La Candelaria I wasn’t anticipating a memorable meal. However, this cheese, mushroom and chicken crepe was one of my absolute favorite dishes in Bogota. Accompanying my crepe was Colombia’s local beer, Club Colombia (I prefer the blonde brew).

Crepes & Waffels is not just for the French. This popular Colombian chain was recommended by every local that I met so I knew I had to see what all the hype was about. The menu is pretty extensive, meaning that there is something for everyone. I chose a chicken crepe and our group split two different desserts. Both were delicious and had a creative presentation. Despite being a chain restaurant, the quality is great and the prices affordable.

Learning English & Other Languages: The Basics

Those who have been following my time in Colombia are well aware that one of my main motivators for choosing Colombia was to practice my Spanish. For the last several months I’ve been taking Spanish lessons in Manhattan, struggling to break free of my shy attitude about real-live practice. However, due to a few glitches in my plan, most of my studying has been on my own.

While I pretty much have the English language down, many of the same principles can be applied to any foreign language.

 

The Best Way to Learn English

In my opinion, immersion is the best way to learn a language. However, I think that in order to grasp new concepts one needs to understand basic vocabulary and grammar structure. This can be done easily via in-person classes, online schools or even YouTube videos. I chose to sign up for actual classes because I knew that I needed to be forced to speak Spanish aloud rather than mumbling words to myself. Others are more prone to learning online so it definitely varies from person to person.

The Best place to learn English

While I have several friends who have learned to speak English in New York City, I recommend a more neutral location. New Yorkers speak fast and locals are either NYC natives or foreigners, meaning that the amount of English accents one hears on a daily basis might overwhelm. While it’s important to understand different accents, learning and understanding the most standard accent will most likely make the process easier. I recommend Washington, DC or perhaps scenic Colorado.

TV, Films, Music and Video games

I’m not huge into video games and I don’t own a television but I do think that these media outlets can greatly help a language learner grasp new vocabulary and concepts. For me, I have more difficulty understanding straight audio but if I can actually see a person’s mouth and even better, a theatrical way of expressing these words, this is extremely helpful. I’m also a big fan of foreign films with subtitles.

Infographic on how to learn english via kaplan blog.

My Most Bohemian Moment in Bogota

Like many other avant-garde travelers, I wasn’t sure what to expect when arriving to Bogota. This trip was a personal one and so I preferred to let things unravel naturally. Before arriving, I was warned by countless people to watch out for pick-pockets, kidnappers and criminals in general.

Despite the borderline frightening moment I’m about to explain, I find Colombia to be a safe and happy place. From my experience, it is far from the dangerous city it was in recent history.

While I still have another day in Colombia, here is my most Bohemian Moment in Bogota

Unlike in the United States, where workers celebrate Labor Day by eating and drinking, the same cannot be said of Colombia. Here, the day is all about protesting the government. Deciding to meet Robert from Leave your Daily Hell on this particular day turned out to be an unwise decision. Hundreds of policemen with guns and shield protectors lined the streets although I didn’t witness much protestation from the workers. (Again, this is not normal in Bogota the other 364 days of the year)

While leisurely sipping my cup of coffee and chatting with Robert about our love for travel, all of a sudden we looked up and saw about 50 people panically sprinting in our direction. People inside the coffee shop started yelling and scrambling to find a hiding spot. To be honest, I thought there was a rogue protester on the loose with a gun in hand. For a split second, I feared for my life.

The next half hour involved us moving from one part of the coffee house basement to the next to avoid the effects of tear gas. In between the bursts of tears and panic, everyone seemed to go about their normal business, making small talk and laughing about the absurdity of it all as we moved further into the building’s basement. It was a strange yet thrilling thirty minutes to say the least.

So where is the silver lining in this story? Well, it took this “faux trauma” for me to finally speak Spanish without fear of making a mistake, however broken is sounded. I even began speaking in Spanish to people who were talking to me in English. Also, tear gas is a much better alternative than anything involving weapons. During the whole experience, I met some pretty interesting locals. One woman lent me her cell phone and even offered to drive me home to my apartment.

Most Ironic Line: My boyfriend came looking for me and was stopped by a guard outside the coffee shop.

“Hello, there was an American girl here.”

“Oh, yes, we have her in the basement.”

Again, looking back, this was not as extreme as it may sound. I’m sure that far worse things happen on a daily basis in New York City. In fact, I’m positive they do.

Note to Self: When in Colombia, Zip Line When the Weather is Nice

Although I was pre-warned, I clearly underestimated the daily amount of rainfall in Bogota. Forgetting to pack both my raincoat and umbrella certainly didn’t help matters.

While rain is not exactly my favorite weather condition, it’s completely normal for Bogota residents who don’t let a little bad weather ruin their day. In an effort to fell more local, I put on my game face and braved the great outdoors for what turned out to be an anything but ordinary Saturday afternoon.

Heading for the hills, we made our way to Colombia Xtrema, an outdoor adventure space that hosts a variety of extreme sporting and leisure activities including zip-lining, paintballing, bungee jumping, horseback riding and ecological hikes.

Since Bogota is not your quintessential tourist destination, more often than not, you will find locals here, which is a great opportunity to get the scoop on other city escapes. An easy drive from Bogota makes it a popular weekend excursion.

Testing my own limits, I started the day off with a quad ride through several miles of hills and farmland. Be prepared bumpy roads, mud-stained clothes and potential collisions with cars driving the opposite way. Your competitive side is sure to come out, making speeding and swerving hard to resist.

Rivaling the excitement of an open road is the equally captivating landscapes that surround the trail in every direction. Although I’ve only been in Bogota a few days, I’m guessing this view is hard to beat. The silence alone is enough for any urban traveler to feel as if they are in unknown territory.

In true “low-season” form, our group was offered heavily discounted prices for the three-part zip-lining course. Being that my level of Spanish fluency is next to nothing and that I’m extremely afraid of heights, naturally I agreed.

Surprisingly, the biggest challenge for me that day was the steep hike up to the highest zip line drop. Alas, I also managed to forget to pack sneakers so my climb was done in ballet flats.

So if you find yourself in Bogota and looking for a bit of adventure and landscape, testing your physical limits in the pouring rain may be your best bet.

Travel & Relax the Italian Way: Visit 5 Fabulous Villages in Sardinia

Who doesn’t know Sardinia, its white beaches and crystal sea? Obviously, the Sardinian coasts are the most famous aspect of the Island but there are a lot of ways to enjoy the second largest Island of Mediterranean sea.

That being said, if you are looking for a new point of view for your travel experiences, enjoy this Top 5 Most Singular Villages to visit during your Sardinian voyage.

1) Orgosolo
Located in the centre of Sardinia, Orgosolo is a small but fascinating village due to its location and history. It seems covered by a strange silent atmosphere; maybe it is a way to still fight against its controversial past and to let the turn to the 350 Murales spread out all over the streets. Murales are wall paintings with a striking effect to visitors not only because their giant size and vivid colours, but also because their political purpose. A kind of peaceful strategy after years of violence and disorders.

2) Benetutti

Why should you visit this village in the province of Sassari? Because Benetutti sounds in English as “we are all well”! It is a so positive name able to influence you at first sight. Benetutti is also a good location for a slow break thanks to its thermal springs and the renowned wine production.

3) Carloforte

Carloforte is the only municipality of the Island of S. Pietro, one of the few fishing villages in Sardinia and a sister city of Tabarca (Valencia, Spain). In this pretty oasis, only reachable by boat, two big and “tasty” festivals take place. Chefs and food experts from all over the world usually participate to The Tabarkan Cous Cous Festival, dedicated to a local recipe of Cous Cous and, The Girotonno dedicated to the tuna fish. During the Festivals, Carloforte offers a sparkling atmosphere with cultural appointments, music, shows and obviously, wine and food tastings.

4) San Salvatore di Sinis

Do you remember the “Spaghetti Western” movies by Sergio Leone? A lot of its intense scenes were been filmed in San Giovanni di Sinis! This village, near Oristano, has been transformed into a Wild West town with low houses, narrow streets and even a saloon. During the summer season, the high temperature and the steam that rise from the streets give you the impression of strolling throughout a Mexican village.

5) Baradili

Baradili is the smallest Sardinian village and one of the least populated of the whole Italy. It consists of only 51 habitants and, as in a big family everyone knows your name. Located in the Province of Oristano, Baradili preserves ancient traditions and interesting archaeological sites in a good state of conservation.

Guest Post – Silvia Pe is an Italian travel lover and a compulsive reader living in Sardinia.

Hang Ten, Drink Up, and Dance Like a Local in Hawaii

Hawaii has always been on my “must-visit” list. While the tropical state is part of the US, the exotic elements of the island make it seem much farther away. I’ve come up with a list of things to do for the first time traveler to Hawaii (myself included).

Unsure of where to stay? Try one of these Waikiki hotels.

Learn to Surf

I’ve always wanted to learn to surf and since I have yet to do so, Hawaii seems like an ideal place to start. In many ways surfing is synonymous with Hawaii so finding group or private lessons takes little effort on your part. With so many surfers around, water traffic is inevitable so watch out for those around you. Another thing to note is sharks. My Mom actually learned to surf in Hawaii and very nearly had a run-in with a huge Tiger Shark, so keep this in mind before doing something borderline dangerous.

Dance at a Luau

If you are shy about dancing I suggest you test your limits in Hawaii. Luau’s are held throughout the island and seem like the perfect way to have fun while learning about the Polynesian culture. These performances are all throughout the island and usually accompanied with some sort of dinner or drink special. If you want to learn more about the art of the luau, taking a hula class might be just the thing to feel more local.

Explore the Island

I remember my Dad telling me how many residents get “Island fever” after a year of living in Hawaii because it doesn’t take too long to explore the whole Island. For the rest of us who don’t live here, there’s never a shortage of things to do and see. While Hawaii is the “Big Island”, there are other smaller and equally interesting islands including Maui (the Valley Isle) and Molokai (The Friendly Isle). Oahu (the Gathering Place) has hiking trails that will give you the ultimate reward – an amazing view.

Drink your way to Exotic

If surfing scares you and aren’t the most talented dancer in the world, I suggest you head straight to the bar. I generally order wine or champagne in my everyday life but when I travel, trying a few local drinks is a boozy way to feel exotic. These are some of my favorite tropical drinks and ones I’d definitely taste in Hawaii: Mai Tai, Lava Flow, Blue Hawaiian, Hukilau and Aloha. You can order these at any bar or make them yourself if you are feeling particularly adventurous.

See Art After Dark

As an avant-garde traveler, it’s not just the sporting and cuisine of Hawaii that is of interest. The Honolulu Museum of Art hosts a monthly ArtafterDark art party which takes place the last Friday of each month from 6-9 pm. If you miss this during your time in Hawaii, make sure to check out the museum during the day or try stopping by Kailua’s Second Sunday art gallery walk. The Honolulu Academy of Arts has an extensive collection of Asian paintings and Buddhist statues.

Image via USFWS Pacific‘s flickr stream

*This post made possible by Aqua Resorts.

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