About Shiraz Hassan
Shiraz Hassan is a magazine reporter and feature writer for Sunday Magazine in Lahore, Pakistan, where he covers social issues, art and culture. At the magazine, he has published more than 400 features related to social problems, culture and 'show biz.' Shiraz has also worked as a news editor at the radio network “MAST FM 103” in Lahore.
He writes about culture and heritage of South Asia, particularly Pakistan. He advocates rich culture of this land and tries to explore facts. Recently he was given an award from the Federal Ministry of Population Welfare for his article on population crises. Writers Guild also awarded him a Medal of excellence for his work.
Recent Posts by Shiraz Hassan
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| At Baoli Bagh, Rung Mehal. Walled City of Lahore |
Lahore, a city which has been ruled by several kings, and conquered by many invaders, is rightly known as the heart of Pakistan and cultural hub of Punjab today. The city is not only known as a shelter which offer living opportunities to the immigrants, but also as one which always welcomes the outsiders with wide open arms and embrace them like no one. This city provides a reason to live, it gives you a life!
Today, when I look back over the past, I remember nothing as vivid as the golden period of my life that I have spent in Lahore. Those six years of my life in the city of wonders, were absolutely wonderful, a roller cost, a journey of dreamland, precious and unforgettable experience.
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| At Noor Haveli, Interior Lohari Gate, Walled City |
Lahore – Shifting to the city of wonders
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| Roaming around inside Mochi Gate area |
I have spent most of childhood in the old areas of Rawalpindi, but after my graduation I planned to move to Lahore for Masters in Mass Communication. Back then, I had no idea that there was a great life waiting ahead for me. I came to Lahore in October 2005, soon after the deadly earthquake in Azad & Jammu Kashmir and N.W.F.P (Now KPK). For me it was like a dream coming true. As I moved to the city, I found the hassle-bustle of the city very appealing.
At first, the feeling to belong to Lahore was overwhelming and indescribable but now that I am recognized as Lahori, I can proudly say that this city has given me an identity. I feel that Lahore belongs to me and I belong to Lahore. I completed my studies here, and also started my career from this city.
During my stay in Lahore I never thought about leaving this city, in fact, I could not believe that I was actually leaving the city till my last day in Lahore.
Lahore – good ol’ memories
Now that I am miles away from Lahore, I remember Lahore for many good reasons; actually there are hundreds of good memories related to Lahore.
Firstly, I miss the city! For me, Lahore is not just a city, it is a living character, a companion, who gives you company, and who listens you, who never lets you alone. Then, I miss gathering of my friends and places where we used to sit together late night and Tea and discussion ware essential parts of our meetings.
Just imagine sitting in front of an old house, where prestigious Urdu writer Saadat Hassan Manto used to live, at an open air tea stall in Old Anarkali, families and young people walking around and eating. Students, lawyers, activists and all kinds of people sitting nearby you, and you are sitting at a tea stall, busy in discussing ‘Literary Criticism’ or’ Magical Realism and Gabriel Garcia Marquez’ or perhaps new aspects of Urdu poetry. That is how I spend many nights in Anarkali like that. And I miss it now.
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| Dhol and Dhamal at Urs Data Gunj Baksh (Photo: AFP) |
Other place that I used to visit frequently is Al-fazal Hotel in Laxmi chowk, Lahore. This is a bit different place as compared to Anarkali. It’s an ordinary hotel, where poets, artists and other like-minded people sit together. It was quite ‘school’ of a group of writers, but with the passage of time many people quitted coming here due to some reason. But I always enjoyed sitting there. One of the key memories of that place is that we never ate anything or took tea from this hotel despite of sitting several hours there. Our tea usually came from a tea stall adjacent to hotel and ‘Channay’ from famous Tooba restaurant, located at the right side of Al-Fazal hotel.
Other places where I spend some good quality time are those which make up vital part of my memory of Lahore. They include: Qehwa Stall at Jail road, Nairang Art gallery, Alhamra at The Mall, Liberty Market, Krishan nagar, Tea Stall and Desi Food shops at Temple road, Mashallah parathay, Mohammadi Nihari, Basheer Machhli at Mozang, Pulao shop outside Mori gate, Dehi Bhallay and Koozi haleem at Regal Chowk, Gawalmandi and Lahore Press Club.
Lahore – changing face of the city
The year I came to Lahore I also witnessed the closure to ‘Pak Tea House’, a historic place at The Mall (once it was known as India Tea House), where writers, intellectuals, poets, artists, student and all of the seniors and junior persons from literary circle of Lahore used to gather here. I visited this place a few times because it was closed in 2005-6 and never re- opened since that. (Now, although commissioner Lahore has ordered reopening of Pak Tea House but it hasn’t opened yet. Renovation work is in progress)
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| Pak Tea House, The Mall (Photo: Google images) |
Another place where I liked to visit was ‘Alhamra Adbi Bethak’, a hall provided by the Govt. as the alternative of Pak House, but it was as healthy and ‘cultural’ place as Pak Tea House.
Lahore, at its peak, was better known for its lively Lahori culture and festivals such as Basant festivals, Jashn-e- Baharaan, Rafi Peer Festivals, Cricket Matches, Mela Charaghaan, Weekly Dhol performance of Pappu Saayn at Shah Jamal Darbar. And also known for the world famous Food Street, Gawalmandi.
Unfortunately, I also witness this rich culture of turning into a nightmare. During the past six years I have seen several dramatic changes in Lahore. First of all Food Street of gawalmandi was demolished by the Muslim League (N)’s government because it was the initiative of General Pervez Musharraf. It was a big blow to the Lahoris and people visiting here. But I realized that it was just the beginning of the worst.
In 2007 Lahore was the hub of judiciary crises; I covered all these rallies and protests for radio network Mast FM 103, and witnessed a unique enthusiasm in the citizens of Lahore. But after the Laal Masjid, Islamabad crises terrorism knocked at the ‘door’ of Lahore. It was the worst of all that we experienced in this culturally rich city.
I saw bloodshed, I felt terror, and I saw tears, I heard screams. I witnessed terrorism so closely. I witnessed blasts at FIA building at Temple road, Rescue 15 office at Queen’s road and near High Court, as I used to live nearby.
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| Attack on Sri Lankan Cricket Team (Photo: AFP) |
Lahore was being targeted by the terrorists several times. Attack on Sri Lankan cricket team in Lahore made things more complicated which resulted in withdrawing of cricket matches held in Pakistan. This is how Pakistan lost the hosting of Cricket World Cup 2011 and Lahore also lost the Semi-Final venue (India vs Pakistan semi-final could have been played in Lahore).
Within few years Lahore lost almost everything! Cultural festivals and places like Basant, Food Street, and Pak House. But the most tragic of all things is that no one is bothered about it, everyone is isolated and culture of Lahore is going to have a terrible end.
Exploring Lahore – a life time experience
I got a unique opportunity to ‘Explore’ Lahore when I discussed my idea of writing detailed features about old places of Lahore with my management. Later, I wrote more than 40 features regarding gates of walled city, old bazaars of walled city, historic educational institutes and shrines of Lahore.
This was something I really wanted to do, a life time experience. Visiting all these places, especially narrow and dark streets of old city, meeting people living there, photographing and collecting information etc. For me, it was just like re-visiting past. The feeling you have while passing by a narrow street of old city, while you see old architecture, lovely windows and chobaraas (pavilions), well designed, magnificent wooden doors. From Bhaati gate to Lohari, Mochi and Taxali, areas inside all the 13 gates of Lahore have their unique feelings, which is incomparable, I bet.
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| Interior Sherwanwala gate area |
And how can I forget the experience I had during visit of historic educational institutes like Govt. College University, Punjab University old campus, National College of Arts, Islamia College Civil Lines, Islamia College Railway road, Kinnaird College, King Edward Medical University and others. Most of them are red bricked buildings built in Anglo-Mughal style, with hue roof and gothic arched verandas and corridors. Have you ever experienced walking down these corridors, isn’t it like walking into the past?
The great personalities of this region also once used to pass these paths.
The best thing about Lahore is Lahore city itself. Lahore never lets you alone; one doesn’t need a companion to experience Lahore. Lahore gives you company all the time while you roam around.
Once one of my friends asked ‘tum kya puraanay imaarto’n mai dhoondhtay rehte ho?’ (Why in hell are you searching for in these old buildings?)
And I replied simply: “You first have to fall in love to experience love”.
I have a different approach about Lahore. Although Lahore is a modern city, and as a metropolitan city it has many shopping malls, skyscrapers (though no very tall), some lavish food places (such as M.M Alam Road), markets like Liberty, Moon market, Y Block DHA and several others. But so What? Almost every metropolitan city in this world has all these facilities.
But, Lahore Fort is the only one in the world! Shah Jamal Shrine is nowhere else in the world except Lahore! You cannot build a Walled City like Lahore city! These places have a history, history of hundreds of years. These walls, doors, windows, pavilions, streets and old trees have witnessed the history of Lahore. I smelled them; I felt the fragrance of past, and it sent me back to the golden era of Lahore. But now I miss the dust of Lahore, I miss the fragrance of Lahore.
Posted in: Culture, Travel
Location: Asia, Featured, Lahore, Pakistan, Photos
Tags: city of lahore, lahore, Lahore Pakistan, pakistan, Remarkable Lahore: Its Changing Face, visiting lahore
Art is in the artist’s hands, turning color into art of the promise land, we all wish we had these hands, but it’s a gift that can’t be taken in by any hands. They need to be artists hands, all different colors even have a flow or tone but look at the beautiful promises they have for me and you – Amanda Shelton
These are some photographs of Pakistani artisans taken at Lok Mela, held in Islamabad recently.
Photo Credits: Shiraz Hassan
“Show your ID card” the securitypersonnel asked.
I took out my ID card and showed it to him. “No, you can’t go inside”
“But why?” I asked
“Muslims are not allowed to enter the Gurdwara, now move on” he said while gently pushing me aside. “But why?” I kept on asking…
I was at the gate of Gurdwara SiriPanja Sahib, Hassan Abdal.
“Muslims are not allowed to enter”- it felt like a hard slap on my face.
I think this was the first time I realizedhow it feels like to be a minority in a country. When you are under differentsanctions and restrictions or when you are stopped from doing things orvisiting any religious or other places.
What also crossed my mind was thatthis place was associated with one of the greatest personalities of South Asiaand Punjab in particular, Baba Guru Nanak Dev Ji, who spread the message ofpeace, love and humanity among all human beings, without any discrimination.Baba Guru Nanak Dev Ji is equally respected among Muslims too. Peace does nothave any religion; Love does not have any borders. Where there is peace and love, we allbow our heads.
But I couldn’t also forget the factthat the current security issues of Pakistan are a major concern and needlessto say that there is always a threat to security. We have to admit thatterrorism has affected us in ways more than we can fathom. Even we cannot visitthose holy places which are respected and highly regarded among peace-lovers. Ihope things will change for the better and the gates of these havens of peacewill be soon opened to all.
However, my friend Shahzad Ahmedfinally made it possible to enter the Gurdwara Panja Sahib, thanks to hisstrong willed efforts. During our visit we also met another nice and humbleyoung man Inderjit Singh. Shahzad’s friend Umar introduced him to us. I, alongwith my friend Shafqat stepped inside the Gurdwara in the company of Inderjit.
Gurdwara Panja Sahib is oneof the holiest places of the Sikh religion. I am not going into the detailshere but it is important to mention the religious and historical significanceof this place. According to the Sikhiwiki
“GuruNanak alongwith Bhai Mardana reached Hasan Abdal in Baisakh Samwat 1578 B.K. corresponding to 1521A.D. in the summer season. Under a shady cool tree, Guru Nanak and Bhai Mardanastarted reciting kirtan (sacred hymns) and their devoteesgathered around. This annoyed Wali Qandhari but he was helpless.
According to legend, Bhai Mardana was sent three times to Wali Qandhari so that he would provide him with somewater to quench his thirst. Wali Qandhari refused his request and was rude tohim. In spite of this, Mardana still very politely stuck to his demand.
The Wali ironically remarked: “Why don’t you ask your Masterwhom you serve?” Mardanawent back to the Guru in a miserable state and said “Oh lord! I prefer death tothirst but will not approach Wali the egoist again.” The Guru replied “Oh Bhai Mardana ! Repeatthe Name of God, the Almighty; and drink the water to your heart’scontent.”
The Guru put aside a big stone lying nearby and apure fountain of water sprang up and began to flow endlessly. Bhai Mardana quenched his thirst and felt gratefulto the Guru. On the other hand, at about the same time, the fountain of Wali Qandhari dried up.
On witnessing this, Wali in his rage threwpart of a mountain, a huge rock towards the Guru from the top of the hill. TheGuru stopped the hurled rock with his hand leaving his hand print in the rock.Observing that miracle, Wali became the Guru’s devotee. This holy and reveredplace is now known as Panja Sahib.”
The word”Panja” in Punjabi means an”outstretched palm” from the word “panj” which means”five”.
Passing through the gate, I raisedmy head and saw the magnificent architecture of the Gurdwara, the gold andwhite colored domes shining brightly under the sun. Families were sitting alongin corridors and near the holy water pool. Children and men were taking the holybath or dip in the pool (Ashnaan).
The Vaisakhi Mela had ended just aday before our visit and though most of the pilgrims from India and othercountries had left for Lahore and Nankana Sahib, there were still many localand foreign pilgrims around.
I have visited many Shrines andDarbaars before and I should say that I felt the same calm and peace in this placeas well.
While showing us around, InderjitSingh narrated to us the historical and religious significance of this place.He told us about the architecture, rituals, Siri Granth Sahib and Panja Sahib.He guided us through the different parts of Gurdwara and in the end we dippedour feet in the holy water of Panja Sahib and touched the Holy Stone.
The experience of this visit shall foreverremain a memorable one for me as throughout day I could literally feel the peaceand calmness of its air in my heart. Just before leaving Inderjit Singh askedus about experience and feelings after visiting Gurdwara. Before I couldcollect my thoughts and express in words (which was quite impossible at thathigh time) Shafqat said “We are peace seekers and where there we will find it,we’ll bow our heads”
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| I, Inderjit Singh and Shafqat Aziz |
All I can wish for is that the wallsof hatred to be brought down and message of love, peace and harmony be spreadaround. If something had gone wrong somewhere in the past, we have to work hardand correct it ourselves now. I hope peace prevails and people from differentreligious faiths live together in harmony.
And to remember Baba Guru Nanak DevJi through his own words
Love the saints of everyfaith:
Put away thy pride.
Remember the essence of religion
Is meekness and sympathy,
Not fine clothes,
Not the Yogi’s garb and ashes,
Not the blowing of the horns,
Not the shaven head,
Not long prayers,
Not recitations and torturings,
Not the ascetic way,
But a life of goodness and purity,
Amid the world’s temptations…
All Pakistan ‘Lok Mela’ held in Islamabad, Lok Virsa. Culture and handicrafts of all provinces including Gilgit-Baltistan and Azad Kashmir was represented there. The most fascinating thing about this event was a chance to meet out real heroes, real artist and to see them working! I pay my regard to all workers and artisans. Enjoy some of the pics of event.
Photography Credits: Shiraz Hassan
Posted in: Arts, Culture
Location: Asia, Featured, Pakistan, Photos
Tags: artisans, asia, Culture, Lok Mela in Islamabad: Event With Great Pakistani Crafts & Artisans, pakistan, pakistan art, pictures, traveling to Pakistan
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| Asfand Yaar Mohmand is performing |
The man sang passionately, his eyes shining like stars—fingers moving fast over the strings of the Rubab—the melodious singing and the sound of the Rubab touched my soul. He was singing a Pushto song and though I couldn’t understand a single word of the lyrics I stood frozen. I asked the Pathan standing beside me about the meaning. He explained -“Your eyes are intoxicated and it has made me drunk”. The shimmering face of the singer was deep drowned in the intoxication of melody—he wasn’t just singing.
Asfand Yaar Mohmand was performing at the ‘Lok Mela’ at Lok Virsa, Islamabad.
Meet Asfand Yaar Mohmand, 19 year old folk singer and Rubab player. He hails from the region which is currently one of the most volatile regions of Pakistan. Asfand Yaar Mohmand belongs to a far-flung area of Pandiala village, Bargay, Mohmmand Agency of federal administrative tribal areas (FATA) close to the Pak-Afghan border.
“I haven’t visited my hometown for more than ten years now, I am afraid of the Taliban. They don’t like these things” said Asfand, adding that he is passionate about music “I love singing and playing the Rubab”.
Asfand belongs to a family of laborers. One of his brothers is a furniture maker and the other sibling, who plays the Jhankaar, helps him in his music. In the beginning, his family wasn’t in favor of his decision of choosing singing and music as a career, but they couldn’t continue to resist as they saw his passion and craze. “My father was very angry with me, but not now, as he says he [Asfand] will not step back so let him carry on”.
“I love playing the Rubab, this is such a beautiful instrument. Its strings touch your soul, literally”. Beginning his journey singing Pushto and Urdu songs, Asfand has composed his own songs too and plans to release his album soon. He is also a fan of the renowned Pushto folk singer, Haroon Bacha.
He said that he has no idea when will he go back to his hometown. “Things are not good over there; they [Taliban] don’t allow music”. Back home, they could just about manage to arrange musical gatherings inside homes, without any sound system, commented Asfand. He told that many artists have shifted to Charsadda and other areas of Khyber-Pakhtoonkha and perusing their musical career from there for the same reason.
Asfand happens to have a musical band and is looking forward to a bright musical career. I hope his dreams come true!
ایک دوپہر
قدم قدم تنہائی میں
صحرا کی پہنائی میں
پیلا زرد سکوت سماں
دشت کا آْئینہ ہے
एक दोपहर
कदम कदम तनहाई में
सहरा की पहनाई में
पीला ज़र्द स्कूत समां
दश्त का आईना है
A NOON
Step by step
in solitude
of the desert’s profound depth
the pale-yellow
Silent spectacle around
Is a true mirror
of terror!
Ekti Dupur
Ek pa ek pa koray
E morubhoomir gobhir ekakitye doobay jaoa
Norom Holuder Nishtobdho Drissho
Atonker Ashol Protifolon
***
استفسار
چھاؤں کا چھلاوا بھی
دھوپ کی خباثت ہے
لہر کا بلاوا بھی
ریت کی سیاست ہے
خشک ریگزاروں میں
تیری کیا فراست ہے
प्रश्न
छाओं का छलावा भी
धूप की खबासत है
लहर का बलावा भी
रेत की सिआसत है
शुष्क रीगज़ारों में
तेरी किया फ़्रासत है
QUESTION
The shadowy Elfin
is also a villainy
of sunshine
The call of a tidalwave
is another clever strategy of sand
What do you fathom
is the vast dy desert?
Proshno
Chhayapori roudreri ek chholona
Jowar bha(n)tar daak, baalir ek chotur niti
Morubhoomir atawl gobhirey, tawl ki melay?
وصال
جاگا سپنا جیون کا
برسا بادل ساون کا
پیاس کی ماری دھرتی پر
سُدھ بُدھ ہاری دھرتی پر
تن من کے اسرار کھلے
اپنے بھید ہزار کھُلے
वसाल
जागा सपना जीवन का
बरसा बादल सावन का
प्यास की मारी धरती पर
सुध बुध हारी धरती पर
तन मन के इसरार खुले
अपने भेद हजार खुले
UNION
The dream of life
came to an end
to its fill
The thirsty Earth
confounded and baffled
by the long drought,
had lost its wit.
Presently,
the mystries of Body
and Soul
and a thousand other secrets
of its own
were revealed to it.
Milon
Shawpner sheshey borshar jawlbhora megh
Moosholdharay jamon bhashay deergho khawray trishnarto, bibhranto prithibikay,
Theek temoni ekhon shorir o moner rohossho aar prithibir nijer hajar gopon kawtha,
Tar shamney ujarrh korey day nijeder
***
رشتہ
سرسبز شاخوں میں
پھر جو کُوک اُٹھتی ہے
اک برہ جلی کوئل
کون ہوگیا بے کُل
کس کی ہوک اٹھی ہے آہنی
रिश्ता
सरसबज़ शाखाओं में
फिर जो कूक उठती है
इक
बिरह जली कोइल
कौन हो गया बे कुल
किसकी हूक उठी है आहनी
RELATIONSHIP
Smouldering in a separation,
a Koel has coo-cooed
behind lush green
leafy branches
of some tree.
Simultaneously,
a ground rises in agony
who is so restless
behind the iron bars?
Shawmpawrko
Biccheder goonay jwoley, jhawlmawley shoboojer patabhawra daaley boshey kuhu shawrawb hoy baarbaar,
Tawkhoni ek tibro jawntronar gongani,
Temoni ghawnoghawno,
Garoder arrhalay lookono, adhoirjo karoor nisshashey
Posted in: Arts, Creativity, Culture, Spirituality
Location: Asia, Pakistan
Tags: arabic poetry, english poetry, hindi poetry, pakistan, pakistan arts, pakistani culture, poetry, yousuf hassan, yusuf hassan
On January 4, 2011, Governor Punjab Salmaan Taseer was assassinated in Islamabad, Pakistan by his own security guard Mumtaz Qadri, who disagreed with Taseer’s opposition to Pakistan’s blasphemy law. Eight hours before his assassination, he tweeted an Urdu couplet by Shakeel Badayuni:
“My resolve is so strong that I do not fear the flames from without, I fear only the radiance of the flowers, that it might burn my garden down.”
“Mera azm itna bulund hae Parae sholon se dar nahin. Mujhe dar hae tu atish e gul se hae Ye kahin chaman ko jala na dein significant?”
“Peace prosperity & happiness for new year ( 1 1 11 ) i’m full of optimism”
“I was under huge pressure sure 2 cow down before rightest pressure on blasphemy.Refused. Even if I’m the last man standing”
“My observation on minorities: A man/nation is judged by how they support those weaker than them not how they lean on those stronger”
“Maulvis have given a fatwa against me!! It gets better and better”
“There’s a demonstration of about 150 maulvis outside Governors House calling 4 my head! Quite pathetic”
“You can detain persons but u cannot arrest ideas which is why prisoners of conscience are always free”
“The sentencing of Asia Bibi 4 blasphemy by a magistrate is more damaging 2 Pakistans image than the attack on CID HQ in Karachi”
“The Punjab govt has ordered the Ruet e Hilal Committeeto sight the Governor and report his whereabouts”
Ruet e Hilal Committee (the committee who sees moon before Islamic holiday)
“They issued fatwas against Benazir [Bhutto] and Zulfikar Ali Bhutto [her father, an executed former president], and even the founder of the nation, Muhammad Ali Jinnah. I do not care about them,”
“Today is the birthday pf the great Qaid e Azam we need 2 pledge 2 uphold his liberal progressive humane vision of Pakistan”
“Trader bazaari mullah axis pressure from the street supporting blasphemy law. Same crowd that agitated against PPP in 1977 & welcomed Gen Zia”
General Zia was Islamic fundamentalist. who tried to establish Islamo-fascist laws after taking over.
“I’m ok wth my effigy being burnt and Fatwas against me but i’m really angry that I’m not mentioned anywhere in Wikileaks!”
“Now Maulana Fazal ur Rahman wants me out because of my views! Phir hamee qatl ho ayen yaaro chalo”
Phir hamee qatl ho ayen yaaro chalo( let us go and get killed instead friends). Literal translation of poetry.
“My advice 2 mullahs who r telling little madrassah boys that they have a ticket 2 heaven: Grab it urself or give it 2 ur son”
“Tomorrow mullahs r demonstrating against me after Juma. Thousands of beards screaming 4 my head.What a great feeling!”
“Religous right trying 2 pressurise from the street their support of blasphemy laws. Point is it must be decided in Parlaiment not on the road”
“It took Maulana 4 weeks 2 realize I oppose blasphemy laws. Perhaps Swati being sacked 4 corruption was the wake up call ?”
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