This memorable drive links San Martin de Los Andes, the nearby Chapelco ski resort,
and Bariloche. It passes through rugged landscapes, fantastic rock
formations and the unbelievably clear waters of the Traful.
The music on this video is by guitarist Cacho Tirao, and is titled "Ya
Esta Hecha La Rosa".
The map below shows our drive in yellow.
The dirt road is rough, rutty, at times
narrow and hilly. It has a few scary hairpin curves and is not well maintained,
so ask around to make sure conditions are safe before you go. Once you get to
Confluencia, you'll turn right onto Ruta 237, a paved and well-traveled road,
to get to Bariloche. The map is provided courtesy of the San Martin de Los Andes
municipality.
There's a spectacular view of mountains, rock formations and the beautiful Rio Limay on Ruta 237 not far from Bariloche. My video skills do not do it justice, but you get a glimpse of the incredible beauty of the Valle Encantado.
If you didn’t come to Buenos Aires yet, you can’t imagine how Culture (with a big C) is alive around its many streets, avenues, and “caminitos”. Well, so I must tell you: Buenos Aires has an incredible cultural life. And I had the chance to witness that last Saturday: it was the second “Night of [...]
Every tourist coming to Buenos Aires knows the many outdoors fairs that occur during the weekends in different neighborhoods. The most famous is the San Telmo Fair every Sunday in the traditional southern region of the city.
But there’s another one that can take the traveler to the true “Pampas” without leaving the city. If you [...]
The province of Corrientes in northeastern Argentina features an astonishing natural wonder – South America’s second largest wetland, 65 times the size of Buenos Aires.
With exotic wildlife such as the capybara, marsh deer, howler monkeys, alligators, and fresh water otters, as well as 350 species of birds, this nature reserve is making the list of travelers in the know.
The remote, small town of Colonia Carlos Pellegrini is the starting off point for this adventure. A wide range of activities are available – guided boat rides and horseback excursions, as well as canoeing, biking and hiking. Birdwatchers can tick off unique birds from their lists including (with some luck) the elusive Strange-tailed Tyrant. The highly rated lodges of the area include outdoor pools among the lush scenery and gourmet dining.
But there's more than just spectacular scenery and biodiversity this area has to offer. Corrientes is home to a unique culture that combines Catholicism with local saints/spirits. These traditions are reflected in local speech, religious fetes, music and dance.
If you’re seeking a unique experience off the beaten track in an exotic natural setting, this trip is for you. Best time to visit Esteros del Iberá is May – December to avoid the summer heat.
These travel articles rave about the experience and provide travel details:
in – LAN’s travel magazine includes tips on where to stay and how to get there Lugares Magazine gives you the inside scoop The Star wrote about Esteros del Iberá in their eco-tourism section
My new Twitter pals at Buenos Aires Life know a thing or two about what’s going on in the city and where to dine. Here’s what’s at the top of their list:
La Cabrera Reasonably priced traditional Argentinean parilla/steakhouse.
Cabrera 5099, Palermo Soho Tel: 4831-7002
Chances are you will have a positive dining experience in any restaurant you visit in Buenos Aires. But if your priority is to go to the best restaurants the city has to offer, let me point you to some authoritative sources:
Arguably the most respected restaurant guide is Vidal Buzzi (in Spanish). Their top ranked restaurants include:
Le Mistral – Contemporary Mediterranean, including tapas, at the Four Seasons Hotel.
Posadas 1086, Barrio Norte Tel: 4321-1730
Tomo 1 – Contemporary Argentine, with excellent wine list, at the Panamericano Hotel
Carlos Pellegrini 521, San Nicolas Tel: 4326-6695
(It's also my mom’s favorite restaurant in Buenos Aires)
Guia Oleo (in Spanish) offers a very complete restaurant guide. Some restaurants at the top of their rating lists are:
Casa Coupage – Wine tastings, individual attention and New Argentine cuisine in an intimate setting. Reservations required.
Güemes 4382 1st floor, Palermo Tel: 4833-6354
Nectarine – Superior French restaurant
Vicente López 1661, Recoleta Tel: 4813-6993
La Bourgogne – French cuisine in the beautiful Alvear Palace Hotel
Ayacucho 2027, Recoleta Tel: 4808-2100/4805-3857
El Baqueano – Exotic Argentinean meats and fish, including llama, boar and cayman
Chile 495 and Bolivar, San Telmo Tel: 4342-0802
La Mas Querida – Pizzas with a modern twist
Echeverría y Montañeses, Belgrano Tel: 4788-1455
Hippopotamus – New Argentine cuisine
Junin 1789, Recoleta Tel: 4802-0500
Fernet Bistrot – Spanish/Argentine in a romantic setting
Juan Bautista de Lasalle 447 San Isidro Tel: 4732-0539
My recommendation:
I had a delicious, memorable meal at Patagonia Sur, established by Argentina’s most famous chef, Francis Mallman. Steakhouse and northern and southern Argentinean cuisine. Rocha 803 and Pedro de Mendoza, La Boca Tel: 4303 5917
What’s Hot:
Peruvian food and Peruvian/Fusion cuisine are currently all the rage. The Argentine Post has more details and recommendations, including the popular and highly rated Astrid Y Gaston – Lafinur 3222, Palermo Tel: 4802-2991
Good deals and great eats:
The Taxi Gourmet hops in a cab and asks the driver to take her to his/her favorite restaurant which she then reviews. On her top 10 list for 2008 :
Marta Corsico's Former Gas Station Café – Argentinean comfort food. Viamonte 1363 and Talcahuano, Retiro
La Tranquerita – traditional stews, fare – Boyacá 996 – Flores, Tel: 4584 1441
El Litoral – steakhouse Moreno 2201 and Pasco, Balvanera, Tel. 4953 2438
When you visit another country, it helps to have some historical perspective to understand the culture a bit better. In the case of Argentina, if you only know that it's a Spanish-speaking country in the Western Hemisphere, you would normally make assumptions about the country based on whatever knowledge you have about other Latin American countries. But you would quickly find, upon visiting, that some of your assumptions would be wrong. Here's a brief look at the history of Argentina, that will give you some clues as to its unique culture and what it shares (and doesn't share) with other countries.
Click on the image and it will bring up an interactive timeline. Scroll your mouse over the dots to see highlights. You can also click on each image for more details.
I'm an enthusiastic but amateur historian, and although I've used multiple sources for confirming facts and for a balanced analysis, I welcome your comments and/or corrections.
Argentina health officials are taking steps to contain a dengue epidemic, with 5000 cases and 4 fatalities to date.Some unofficial reports state that the number of cases may be as high as 11,000.
What is dengue fever? The CDC (Center for Disease Control) states that dengue fever is caused by a virus spread by mosquitoes, and not by human contact.Dengue symptoms can include fever, headache, pain behind the eyes, muscle and joint pain and rash.The disease is usually mild but can get more severe and in rare cases develop into dengue hemorrhagic fever (DHF), which can be fatal if not treated quickly.There are currently no vaccines available or a specific cure for the disease.People who have had dengue fever previously are more susceptible to DHF. Dengue fever patients are treated with fever reducers, such as acetaminophen, and with oral rehydration or intravenous fluids.In severe cases, treatment is given to support patient blood pressure.
Is it safe to travel to Argentina?
At the moment, the CDC does not consider the epidemic as serious enough to issue a precaution or travel warning (i.e. they do not recommend postponing travel). They do advise that there is an outbreak and offer advice on preventive measures (see below). Before you plan your travel, get the latest news from the CDC Travel Notices site.
The disease is currently concentrated in the northern provinces of Chaco, Salta, Catamarca and Jujuy. There are about cases in Buenos Aires, although it is unclear how many of the patients in question were infected while traveling outside the province and were later diagnosed in Buenos Aires.
Federal and provincial governments are beginning to take the dengue issue more seriously and are embarking on campaigns to reduce the virus bearing mosquito population.
“Travelers can reduce their risk of getting dengue fever by protecting themselves from mosquito bites. The mosquitoes that spread dengue usually bite at dusk and dawn but may bite at any time during the day, especially indoors, in shady areas, or when the weather is cloudy. Unlike malaria, dengue is often spread in cities as well as in rural areas.
Travelers should follow the steps below to protect themselves from mosquito bites:
·Where possible, stay in hotels or resorts that are well screened or air conditioned and that take measures to reduce the mosquito population. If the hotel is not well screened, sleep under bed nets to prevent mosquito bites.
·When outdoors or in a building that is not well screened, use insect repellent on uncovered skin. Always apply sunscreen before insect repellent.
Look for a repellent that contains one of the following active ingredients: DEET, picaridin (KBR 3023), Oil of Lemon Eucalyptus/PMD, or IR3535.
Always follow the instructions on the label when you use the repellent. In general, repellents protect longer against mosquito bites when they have a higher concentration (percentage) of any of these active ingredients. However, concentrations above 50% do not offer a marked increase in protection time. Products with less than 10% of an active ingredient may offer only limited protection, often no longer than 1-2 hours.
The American Academy of Pediatricsapproves of the use of repellents with up to 30% DEET on children over 2 months old. Protect babies less than 2 months old by using a carrier draped with mosquito netting with an elastic edge for a tight fit.
For more information on the use of insect repellents, visit Insect and Arthropod Protectionin the CDC Health Information for International Travel 2008.
·Wear loose, long-sleeved shirts and long pants when outdoors. Clothing may also be sprayed with repellent containing permethrin or another EPA-registered repellent for greater protection. (Remember: don't use permethrin on skin.)”
Although the name of Argentina's capital, Buenos Aires (Good Airs) would imply that it belongs on Travel + Leisure's top 10 list, Patagonia deserves the honor. Visitors confirm that the air is clear and feels purer as you breathe it in. And at night the lack of smog and light pollution brings out every little star.