Safari Surfin’, Kenya!

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Well Team…

So, I’ve made it across the border into Tanzania! My last country on

the tour (unless you count Zanzibar, which does give you a stamp and

sorta is its own country but thank God they don’t charge for Visas

because Tanzania charges $100 USD! (of course we charge them much more,

so I guess it’s only fair).

Turns out Americans are traveling to Kenya! So says Rebecca who runs

the Miliani Backpackers in Nairobi. She says there have been many

more Americans than ever before since about April. I asked if it was

about Obama… and it is. His father is from Kenya, and so many

Americans are now aware of a badass country called Kenya and are

coming. This is good since Kenya tourism is SLOOOOWWWWW thanks to the

problems in January and February. Rebecca also told me about how she

and her family survived the riots and people blocking roads, throwing

rocks and burning tires. And racing through the line of people with

horn “hooting” and skidding into their apartment garage as the guard

slammed it shut on the oncoming crowd. Straight out of a movie,

except that it was real. Fortunately Kenya is totally calm, friendly

as ever but hurting for the travelers to come back. I’m so glad I was

able to come as my safari was fantastic with only about 1/4 of the safari

vans as normal. So get your ass to Kenya so you can enjoy the low

crowds and also help out! :)

So for those who don’t know what exactly a safari is, I’ll tell you (as

I didn’t really know exactly before this trip either). You travel in

a safari van (or Land Rover). I was in a van, it holds up to 8 people,

but there were only 3 (and then 4) of us. So we had lots of room.

You drive to the national park with your guide/driver (ours was

Barry…well, until the van broke down and we were sent with another

crew). The roof pops up so you stand up in the van and look out 360

degrees at the scenery and the animals.

And I mean ANIMALS. Rhinos (the endangered black and white ones),

leopards in trees and lions in the grass (mothers, babies of many

sizes, including 2-week-old ones that squeak like birds, can’t see and

even went UNDER the safari van. The mother came over and picked it up

in her mouth and carried it off). Giraffes by the dozens, elephants

by the dozens. Zebras, hyenas, gazelles, hartebeests, warthogs

(Pumba!), a cheetah, a cerval cat, buffalos by the hundreds. Hippos,

crocodiles, bones and carcasses (oh yes). And yes, wildebeests…

THOUSANDS AND THOUSANDS of wildebeests. One herd was over a mile

long, with maybe 10,000 animals. The ground didn’t rumble like I

expected (but they weren’t running). It was 4 days of viewing,

scenery stretching to the horizon without a power line, cell tower,

paved road or house. Just miles and miles and miles of rolling hills

of grass and escarpments in the background.

We were 1 day at Lake Nakuru, a beautiful lake, (with monkeys!) and 3

at Masai Mara (the Kenyan extension of the great Serengeti Plain).

Sunsets, sunrises and stars galore. I even saw SCORPIO for the first

time that I’m aware.

I was with a very cool couple from Israel, Ifat and Shaked, who were on

their honeymoon. And Mark, an adventuresome pilot for Luftstansa from

Germany. The camp we stayed at had Masai warriors with spears and

clubs and knives that guarded it against animal attacks at night and

wore their traditional clothes (and all had cell phones!).

A grand time.

And the new sport is safari surfing. You stand in the van as it

drives and don’t’ hold onto the edge and try to stay on your feet.

Its’ fun and a good challenge.

Tomorrow I actually go on ANOTHER safari, this one to the amazing

Ngorongoro crater. I had to navigate through the safari tours all

day. It was a lot of work, but the place seems good that I chose.

I’m 3 weeks done, 2 weeks to go. It’s going well. I’m definitely

slipping into the mid-trip blues, though. It always seems to happen at

some point. Where it isn’t quite as fun. When little things become a

bit frustrating rather than amusing. When you stop and think about

how much money is being spent and if you will stay on budget. When

you get a bit lonely and tired of having the same “where are you

from?” conversations. That’s slipping in now. I know it will pass in

a day or two and it’s fine. It’s here. It’s hard to go go go go for

5 weeks straight! :) I’m hoping the 3 people on this safari tomorrow

are cool and that I can relax and still enjoy the adventure. After

all, Kilimanjaro is coming on Friday… 6 days of hiking…

so hope you are all well and living it up. I’m still in search of

Karaoke and in fact going out. It’s Africa and we are always asleep

by like 10pm or so. What the heck? :)

Gotta go, get ready to see more animals. But seriously, come to

Africa. You will be BLOWN AWAY WITH HOW AWESOME IT IS. Awesome.

Just awesome.

Rock on

Craigo

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