One of Zanzibar’s few churches (above) and the architecture of Stone Town (below).
Arrived in Jambiani, a very small one-street town on Zanzibar’s eastern side, and rented a small cottage with attached kitchenette. It was twenty meters from the beach, which was lovely, but the kitchen had no running water (water pipes going to the bathroom sink and shower were crossed with sea water) and no stove and no light that worked.
There was, however, a hot plate, and we found a lamp, and we could walk to one of the fresh water wells in town and fill a pail. So we walked in town and found the best produce and spice vendors and ran on the beach and swam and went snorkeling and came back to read and cook our meals. I tested some Indian recipes, and there was always excellent mango or pineapple for dessert.
Masai men in their garb and walking sticks walked along the beach selling necklaces. In town we joined the people to queue up for water. The women carried the buckets back on their heads.
Avi Kramer is a freelance writer and editor. He has lived in Chile, China
and India and currently resides in Portland, Oregon.
