About Jonny Scott Blair
Jonny Blair is a self confessed traveling nomad. He sees every day as an adventure. Since leaving behind his home town of Bangor in Northern Ireland ten years ago he has traveled to all seven continents, working his way through various jobs and funding it all with hard work and an appetite for travel. His website Don’t Stop Living, a lifestyle of travel' contains over 1,000 stories and tips from his journeys round the globe. He wants to show others how easy it is to travel the world, give them some ideas and encourage them to do the same but most of all he aims to constantly live a lifestyle of travel. He is currently based in Hong Kong and on Twitter @jonnyblair.
Latest Posts by Jonny Scott Blair
View from our hotel room in Trabzon, Turkey.
Trabzon in Turkey is a completely cool city to check out, despite the fact that most travellers seem to “use it” as a means to their onward travels. The reason being it’s ideally located for onward travels from Turkey to Iran or Georgia. Trabzon sits on the Black Sea so leaving by boat is an option. It also has an airport. We ended up leaving by bus on route to Iran, but of course with time to play with in Trabzon, I thought I’d share my top 5 things to see and do in Trabzon.
The square near our Hotel Benli.
1. Aya Sofya. This old building is Trabzon’s number one attraction. As well as being a pretty building, this place was once a Church, a Mosque and even a hospital in its coloured history. It was being renovated when we visited and as well as being a cool building and courtyard, it also offers good views.
2. Old City Walls. Trabzon has one of the most surprisingly cool set of old city walls. When you first pull into this friendly city, you almost didn’t notice these massive walls which scale their way around the city. Walking at leisure is the best way to see them.
The Old City Walls of Trabzon, Turkey.
3. Hamam/Turkish Bath. Don’t let the fact that Trabzon is Turkish to the core escape you. I had my first ever Turkish Bath here (and my first Turkish coffee incidentally). I actually wasn’t a big fan of it and I didn’t feel completely clean after it, I must admit. Plus it’s all male, and you can’t take photos inside. So similarly to Adventurous Kate, I don’t have any nude photos of me in the Hamam.
4. Iranian Consulate. Let’s get to the obvious here: the only reason you backpacked your way to Trabzon was to get your Iran visa. Most travellers check into a cheap hotel before making the short walk up to the Iranian Consulate to apply for their Iranian visa. Don’t just believe the rumours, get yourself out here and nail that Iran visa. This is the easiest place in the world to get your Iran visa so do it.
5. The Black Sea. Breathe in the fresh air, walk along the promenade and love the Black Sea. This was another of life’s “full circle” journeys for me as just a month or so earlier, we had been to Batumi in Georgia and seen the Black Sea on its east coast, now we were on the southern part.
Touring the streets of Trabzon in Turkey.
- Ortahisar – an old school village, the local version of “Cappadocia” which we didn’t visit because we’d seen Cappadocia and later went to Kandovan in Iran.
- Main Square – some great restaurants here.
- Trabzon Bazaar – it’s Turkey so Bazaars and markets feature too.
- Mosques – despite being a massive city of half a million, the Mosques are not quite as impressive as those in Adana, Ankara or Istanbul.
Today, most people don’t put Iraq on their top 3 list of places to go for obvious reasons, but if you decide to go, you will inevitably land at some point in the city of Erbil, the capital city of the Kurdistan region. It’s a thriving hub and ultimately where you get a real feel for Kurdish life.
Before I go on, it’s important to note that Erbil is often also called Hawler and interchangeably spelled Irbil and Arbil. On flight tickets and most places around the city, the spelling is Erbil but remember that for the most part, Kurds don’t want an association with Iraq.
Getting to Erbil, Kurdistan, Iraq
1. By Air
Erbil has a fantastic state-of-the-art international airport, one where you won’t experience many queues on the way in or out and as you might have read, getting a visa for this part of Iraq is very simple upon arrival at the airport.
To get to Erbil or Iraq overland, you’ll more than likely have either come from Turkey or Iran. The borders to Syria, Jordan, Kuwait and Saudi Arabia are not really easily accessible due to the political situation and Iraq is of course still a war zone. You’ll either be in Duhok (if you came from Turkey) or Sulaymaniyeh (if you came from Iran). From both Duhok and Sulaymaniyeh, head to the Garaj in either city and get a shared taxi. The cost for both journeys will be 15,000 Iraqi Dinars. Erbil is in the middle of Duhok and Sulaymaniyeh, so the time to get there is pretty much the same (roughly three hours).
3. By Sea
Currently getting there by sea is not really an option!
Top Things to See & Do in Erbil, Kurdistan, Iraq
1. Erbil Citadel
This is quite simply a masterpiece, and probably the highlight in terms of major sights in Erbil. The Citadel sits high and proud overlooking the city’s modern and changing skyline. Erbil Citadel dates back about 8,000 years and apparently is the oldest continuously inhabited place on earth. Entrance is free and there’s a textile museum, a shop and a mosque within its walls. (above credit top photo: sarkawtasabir.blogspot. com)
2. Erbil Square
At the foot of the Citadel lies a square with lots of fountains, and locals love to hang out here and socialize while smoking shisha and drinking tea.
3. Erbil Bazaar
The Middle East is one of my favourite parts of the world for markets, normally known in this region as Bazaars. Erbil’s Bazaar has undergone a face lift, making it one of the nicest Bazaars across the countries of Turkey, Iran and Iraq. It was here that I picked up a batch of Iraqi and Kurdish souvenirs, including banknotes, coins, stamps, football scarves and flags.
4. Kurdish Parliament
Security is tight here at the Kurdish Parliament and they won’t let tourists inside, nor are you allowed to take photos of the outside building. Be discreet in this area however, as you are surrounded by guards and soldiers from the Kurdistan government and tensions are still high as we are in Iraq.
5. Martyr Sami Abdul-Rahman Park
Martyr Sami Abdul-Rahman Park is a massive park in Erbil which is dedicated to the KRG deputy Prime Minister, who was sadly killed in a 2004 suicide bombing. The park itself tries to forget the past and you can relax here. Families and children alike all head here to chill out. Sports, a lake with paddle boats and outdoors cafes and tea shops make this an incredibly relaxing place.
6. 2004 Obelisk Memorial
While you’re inside Martyr Sami Abdul-Rahman Park, you should try and visit the 2004 Obelisk Memorial which commemorates the 98 people who died in that 2004 suicide bombing. It’s a poignant memorial which not only includes those who were killed, but words that help us remember such loss: “Freedom is Not Free”.
7. Jalil Khayat Masjid/Mosque
This is a new Mosque in the city of Erbil that was unveiled in 2007. It’s by far the best Mosque in the city with its intricate design, mosaics and loud call to prayer. A must visit!
8. Erbil Civilisation Museum
With Iraq and Mesopotamia being known as the “cradle of mankind”, you should check out the Erbil Civilisation Museum which is free to enter. Loads of relics and artefacts from the past will take you on a historical and cultural journey to another time.
9. Minare Park
The entrance arch looks a bit like the one at Universal Studios in the USA, except that there’s also an interesting outdoor path of heroes and Roman looking pavilions and theatres.
10. Sheik Chooli Minaret
This is an old minaret from a Mosque which is no longer there however the minaret remains and is protected. The top of it has been damaged but the Minaret dates back to 1190 and is 36 metres tall.
11. Shanidar Park
Shanidar Park is opposite Minare Park and features a modern, working cable car ride which offers views of the city. Inside Shanidar Park, there is a fascinating arts centre, a rare place to pick up postcards and posters from Iraq.
The park also offers quality views over the city of Erbil from on top of the arts centre.
12. Erbil Football Stadium/Sport Club
Erbil has an excellent football stadium, this one hosted the unofficial World Cup Final (the VIVA World Cup). Kurdistan were the winners when the final was hosted here in 2012.
13. Outdoor Market
If you’ve already been to the Erbil Bazaar and want to check out another market, the outdoor market is slightly different. It’s more open and features a long road of endless stalls selling everything from football shirts to donuts to fruit to deodorant to toys to Kurdish political stuff. The market is located just behind the main square.
14. Tea In the Square
The main square where the fountains are has loads of tea houses where you’ll only pay 500 Iraqi Dinars for a cup of tea, which is about 25 pence (UK Sterling).
15. Erbil International Hotel
This five star hotel in the center of town has two security checks on the way into the hotel as well as one to the very interesting bar on the ground floor. You’ll also see USA, UK, Iraq and Kurdistan flags flying next to each other here.
Other things to note if you have time: check out the Kurdish Textile Museum, the Antikqala (Antique place) and a host of other Mosques.
My African safari experience took me to three of the best national parks in Tanzania, including staying overnight in the totally ace Osupuko Lodge in Tarangire National Park.
The entrance to Osupuko Lodge in the Tarangire, Tanzania.
The Maasai tribe members come over and greet us on arrival at Osupuko Lodge, a lovely mid-ranged jungle based lodge.
The rooms offer hot showers and a mosquito net, with views of elephants in the distance on the edge of Tarangire National Park.
View from our balcony…”elephants come down to the waterhole at dusk, they feel the same as us about life…”
Upon arrival, you receive more than a welcome – it’s a performance. The famous Maasai tribe are based in parts of Kenya and Tanzania and they pride themselves in their expert dancing and singing performance.
Ready for the dance.
I get draped with a gown and get given a stick and the men in the Maasai tribe all have these sticks. Men stand on the right and the girls stand on the left and rather than a stick, the women have an elaborate necklace.
These dances have been a part of their traditions and way of life for generations.
The entire performance lasts about half an hour after which we walk with the Maasai tribe in a march style ritual before dispersing into the night and being left to our own devices.
The Bar in the Tarangire!
A feast lies in store, which includes grilled pork. Sun has set long ago and the sounds in the distance are of animals.
We ended up in the village of Sulav in the Kurdistan part of Iraq. It wasn’t the initial plan to visit Sulav, however we decided to hitch a ride there after exploring the amazing mountain village of Amadiya. It sits in the mountains in a dreamy location, and is a tiny village, so small that it seemed to be centered around one main road!
Great Mountain Views: You can see Amadiya from here – it sits proudly and loftily on the top of the adjacent mountain top and offers really great views. Take your time to scale the edge of the village and admire the views.
Shopping: Iraq doesn’t sell souvenirs the way the rest of the world does, thankfully. But, in Sulav you can pick up a few Kurdish type souvenirs such as key rings, badges and flags. A few roadside stalls are probably better for local kids and is where toys and sweets are sold.
Custom Built Waterfall: There’s actually a fake waterfall alongside a miniature park, an idea brought on by from the local Kurds.
Makeshift Tourist Resort: They have a hotel should you decide to stay for awhile.
Markets: there’s a market area which includes a shopping area for food and also some restaurants.
Proximity to Amadiya: Of course the main reason to come to Sulav was either on route to or on the way back from Amadiya – a really special mountain top village. While Sulav is its young baby brother, you’ll pass through it on route, so you might as well make a stop here as it has some charming elements to the place.
Hitch Hiking from Amadiya to Sulav then onto Qadash: It was a surprise to learn that hitch hiking in Iraqi Kurdistan is not only very safe, but sometimes the only way to get from place to place.
The post The Mountain Village of Sulav, Kurdistan, Iraq appeared first on Don’t Stop Living.
Ramallah sits proud and un-noticed. In reality, it’s the capital city of Palestine. Whether you believe that Palestine is a country or not, isn’t the point. Ramallah remains a Palestinian stronghold, nestled shyly north of the border between Israel and Palestine, this is the centre of the Palestinian authority. Politics aside, but with a bit of history thrown in, I went to Ramallah to see if this capital city had any charms to it.
Flags in Ramallah, Palestine.
1. Yasser Arafat’s Tomb
This is the number one sight in Ramallah so get it on your list. Yasser Arafat, the Palestinian leader who spent a lifetime trying to justify and cement his Palestinian state has his tomb here in Ramallah. Arafat died in Paris in November 2004, but will be immortalised forever by his fellow Palestinians. Entry to Ramallah and indeed Arafat’s tomb is completely off limits to Israelis, but tourists can visit easily and for free. You just turn up at the Al Muquata’a – the headquarters of the Palestinian Government and ask the soldiers if you can go in. Don’t forget to ponder for a second – you’re actually visiting Yasser Arafat’s tomb here!! That’s a good enough reason to do Ramallah in the first place.
One of the top sights in Ramallah – visiting Yasser Arafat’s Tomb.
2. Flag Square (those countries that recognise Palestine as a country)
I’ve no idea if “Flag square” is the correct title for this place, but we’ll go with it. I’ve visited too many places to remember all of their names. Here at Flag Square in Ramallah are flags from every country/region of the world that recognises Palestine as a country. I found this pretty cool. It’s as if they need to legitimise the fact that Palestine is independent. Sadly Palestine is not recognised by the UN as independent. On a personal level, and from my time seeing the different parts of Israel and Palestine, I believe there is a need for two separate states here and for Palestine to finally be recognised as a country. I wandered round checking the flags, of places like Kazakstan, North Korea and the Republic of Ireland, but I didn’t see a Northern Ireland flag so I flew mine there.
Flying the flag as the Flag Square in Ramallah, Palestine.
3. Stars and Bucks Coffee
Palestinians have a sense of humour that’s for sure. They also serve up a decent coffee in the regions coffee chain “Stars and Bucks”! Ramallah of course has a branch so pop in for a cheap coffee. You might have read my report from the Stars and Bucks in the little town of Bethlehem.
Tips for backpacking in Ramallah – Stars and Bucks Cafe.
4. Taybeh Brewery
What? Beer in Palestine’s capital city? Yes, the state of Palestine isn’t just Muslim don’t forget. There are Christians here too and even more surprising they have a REALLY decent brewery that the Israelis can be jealous of. I managed to try Taybeh beer on draft and in bottles during my time in Bethlehem and Ramallah and loved the stuff. It’s a great beer. Why not do a brewery tour in Ramallah! As a bonus go there in October and enjoy the Palestine Oktoberfest. It’s held annually in Ramallah.
While in Ramallah make sure you check out Taybeh Beer, I even made it to the Oktoberfest!
5. Palestinian Dessert
While I had already tried some Palestinian lunch and dinner in both Hebron and Bethlehem, Ramallah was the first time we tried a Palestinian Dessert. There’s a top class restaurant called Aladdin Sweets.
Excellent Palestinian Desserts at Aladdin Sweets in Ramallah, Palestine.
We tried a few different desserts in there – all pretty good, especially the one with cheese in it.
Aladdin Sweets, Ramallah, Palestine.
Duhok/Dohuk in Kurdistan in Iraq is an odd kind of town. You’ve never been in one like it before and you’ll never be in one like it again. In fact, the nearest comparison I can make to Dohuk is with a town called Vank in Nagorno Karabakh.
Basically Dohuk wants to be cool. It really wants to be. But it has a lot of barriers to overcome. Slowly but surely this town is becoming a decent spot for travellers. Even though you won’t linger long (we stayed 2 nights), it’s definitely worth a trip if you’re touring Northern Iraq. And one more thing – don’t be confused by the spelling of the town in this post – it’s sometimes Dohuk, sometimes Duhok!!
Top 10 things to see and do in Duhok Kurdistan Iraq.
Getting to Dohuk
Most travellers will come overland from either Zakho, Mosul or Erbil. Realistically Mosul is in the “dangerous” part of Iraq so you’ll more than likely be arriving from Zakho or Erbil. A friend reckons there are decent bus networks available if you look around, but we couldn’t find many (and they are few and far between) so we stuck to sharing taxis with the locals. Safer, faster and easier to sort out, if slightly dearer. The main Garaj (taxi/transport station) is near Cinema Street and the Bazaar in the town centre.
10 Things to see and do in Dohuk, Kurdistan, Iraq
Central Duhok in Iraq’s Kurdistan Province.
1. The Corniche Promenade
Running long and windingly through the city, and right out to Dohuk Dam, this trendy and smart looking promenade makes a fresh and relaxing walk. Students hang around to study, old men chat, kids mess around and the big city carries on regardless.
2. Dohuk Valley and Dam
This might just be your highlight from Dohuk. Walk out of town and you will see a massive dam which has been built against completely immaculate and scenic countryside. The walk takes you up a hill past a proud Kurdistan flag and then there it is – the Dohuk Dam.
Top 10 things to see and do in Duhok Kurdistan Iraq – the immense valleys at Duhok Dam. The valley spreads far and wide and the views are worth it.
3. Dohuk Waterfalls
4. Dohuk Bazaar
It seems that every city or town of any decent size in Iran, Iraq and Turkey has a bazaar. Dohuk’s is colourful and has all the usual stuff – fruit and veg stalls, drinks, clothes, nik baks, electronics etc.
5. Admire the Views – Azadi Viewpoint/Rasan/Sindore Street
Azadi Viewpoint is a custom built viewpoint over the city. In honest, there are better places for views though like the walk to the Dohuk Dam along Sindore Street and the Rasan Hotel.
6. Rasan Hotel 8th Floor Bar
Alcohol in bars is not easy to find in Dohuk, predictably Ask around and you might be lucky to find an off the wall merchant selling beer unofficially in the back. But enter the posh Rasan Hotel which has an almost “secret bar” on its 8th floor. This is where I enjoyed my first beer in Iraq (a Corona). The bar has a great view over the city – probably one of the best views you’ll get. The owner also showed me the secret stash in the beer fridge. The Iraqis and Kurds that were drinking there had to do so with the lights out.
7. Dohuk Art Gallery
We couldn’t get inside the days we were there but this place has a load of Kurdish Art which for sure will be unique and interesting, finding a museum in Iraq is hard at the best of times – their first museum opened in 2003.
Duhok Art Gallery in Kurdistan, Iraq
8. Dohuk Grand Mosque
The old Grand Mosque in the Bazaar is hardly the prettiest you’ll ever see, but its minaret spikes out rightly from the old poky lanes of the Bazaar and the call to prayer rings round town.
A nicer Mosque towers high on the edge of town…
9. Church of St. Ith Llaha
There are Christians and Armenians in this region too so the Church of St. Ith Llaha is worth checking out.
10. Dream City
Not quite the dream you imagined, but between Dream City and the park near Dohuk Dam we have the reason this is similar to Vank. This is a theme park full of rides and a few food outlets.
The view of Duhok by night.
So you’ll not be short of things to do in Dohuk. There are also a load of cool restaurants including Omara Restaurant Dohuk and many in and around the bazaar. Smoking shish is a common pastime too on the streets typically only by men however.
An Islamic Centre in Duhok, Kurdistan, Iraq.
When life takes you to a place as unique and magnificent as Amadiya in Iraq, you might just need to pinch yourself and check it’s all real. It was. After getting an Iraqi Kurdistan visa on arrival at Erbil airport and touring the northern part of the country, it was time to check out Iraq’s mountains (Iraqis call the whole thing Iraq, Kurds call their region Kurdistan).
Yes folks – Iraq is beautiful. You can travel through roads that take you past immense and immaculate mountain ranges without an army patrol in sight. And shock horror – it’s safe as houses.
Central Amadiya, Kurdistan, Iraq. Safe as houses.
Where is Amadiya?
Amadiya is in Iraqi Kurdistan. Iraqi Kurdistan is a region of northern Iraq, close to the Turkish border. You can enter the Kurdistan region from Turkey and Iran and also by flying into Erbil or Sulimaniyeh airports. The town is also sometimes spelt Amadiye, Amedi and Amadiyeh. The nearest other town is Sulav, a small mountain village. Google maps kind of give you an inkling…
According to Google Maps this is Amadiya…
Amadiya is a Kurdish and Assyrian mountain village in northern Iraq – Kurdistan region. It sits proudly on a mountain top and dates back to the year 3000 BC. It sits an astonishingly close 10 miles from the Turkish border. The village has been rumoured to have been part of the Persian Empire and was a semi autonomous region for a period lasting from 1376 to 1843.
These days Amadiya is governed by the Kurdish government but ultimately controlled by Iraq, from the capital city of Baghdad. Christians and Muslims live in harmony inside this marvellous lofty village. The current population of Amadiya is rumoured to be around 4,000.
The drive from Dohuk to Amadiya is sensational. All you didn’t expect. Iraq’s mountains are beautiful. You will be on a very smooth road through the valleys. Views out either side show the mountains and the mountain villages.
Views from our shared taxi over the northern Iraq mountains of Kurdistan.
The journey from Dohuk to Amadiya takes around 1 and a half hours depending on traffic. It’s not all twists and turns and it’s probably about 70 kilometres of road. Road signs state 60 km between Dohuk and Sulav, while the Lonely planet offers 65 km. Another local map says 90 km…it’s hard to know!
The Road to Amadiya, Kurdistan, Iraq.
On the grand scheme of things, Amadiya is a fairly average town. It has all the usual amenities – a shop – a police station – a youth club – a sports shop – restaurants and a main street. However it’s on top of a mountain and that is why it’s magical!
This is the town centre of Amadiya – it’s on a mountain, and it’s surrounded by mountains.
There are also a few statues and a large Kurdistan flag flying from a roundabout in the village centre. Wandering around at your leisure is a good idea to get a feel for the village. I loved the fact that a car that had a proud USA flag. It’s really not anti-American here in the Kurdistan region of Iraq!
A US flag on a car in Amadiya – Iraqi Kurdistan!!
Amedi Mosque and Minaret
The central focus of the actual town is of course the Mosque/Masjid. As tourists sometimes flock here, there is a sign written in English inside the Mosque. The Amedi Mosque is hard to miss due to its towering Minaret – the highest point in the village.
The Minaret at the Mosque in Amadiya – it towers over the town.
If you do become unsure, just ask locals for “Masjid” and they’ll know you mean Mosque. The Mosque is mostly green in colour.
The information board in English at the Amedie Mosque and Minaret in Amadiya, Kurdistan, Iraq.
You can walk inside the Mosque grounds no problem. If you want to enter the actual Mosque – wear a hajib for females and no shorts/skirts etc. Plus shoes must be taken off.
At the Main Mosque in Amadiya, Kurdistan, Iraq.
Bahdinan Gate/The Eastern Gate
This is the real reason why you’re here. The Bahdinan Gate is the only significant reminder of the ancient fortress city which once existed here. Modern housing blocks have taken over and the old walls have crumbled.
The entrance sign to Bahdinan Gate in Amadiya – this area contains the only remains of the once massive fortress.
Head on your way down the streets of Amadiya until you find the Bahdinan Gate. It’s on the Sulav side of the town towards Dohuk, but it’s a good idea to carry a photo of the Gate (the Kurdistan tourist map has one, as did the Lonely Planet copy we had with us). This will make it easier to find.
Through the gate at Amadiya – the Eastern Gate/Bahdinan Gate.
Most locals will stop and help you no problem. A lot of them will also be happy and shocked to see foreigners in their town. The day we went we were the only two foreigners.
The walls and gate of magical Amadiya, Kurdistan, Iraq.
The family we met at Amadiya – they now live in Sweden.
Once you get to the Gate, it’s basically a path way down to an arch, you head in through the arch for excellent views and you’l be on the path around the walls of what was once a fortress.
The walls and entrance to ancient Amadiya in Kurdistan, Iraq.
Hitching a ride from Amadiya to Sulav, Kurdistan, Iraq.
In Sulav we flagged down a single guy in a car and that was a guy called Jehat. He worked in the oil industry and had friends from Scotland and China so he was able to chat away to us in English and really welcomed us to Kurdistan.
Iran will throw more surprises at you than your expectant heart expected. What you experience when visiting Kandovan cave town is a place peculiarly similar to Turkey’s Cappadocia yet so quiet, without the same commercial shortfallings. There are still currently no buses that run to Kandovan Cave Town, making it an essential visit when you’re based in nearby Tabriz.
Kandovan is an off the cuff gem to visit when based in Tabriz or Osku, Iran. To get there, you can venture off from Tabriz where you can catch a train from the central train station in town. The local buses (free for foreigners) can get you there or you can go via taxi.
The road is called Kargar Boulevard and its a beautiful drive through countryside and mountains. The mini-bus costs 7,000 Rials ($0.25 US) – pay when you get off. Since there are no mini-buses to Kandovan, the best option is to hire a driver. Make sure you agree a price with the driver beforehand.
The fantastic views on the Road to Kandovan, Iran.
Kandovan is a cave town housing around 700 people so wandering round the nooks and crannies are the main things to do and take in the small village feel of the place. Mingling with the locals is very refreshing — they will talk to you. It’s polite to say “Hello, how are you?” in Farsi/Persian which is “Sallam Aleykom”.
We went inside some of the cave houses, but only those that were of a commercial nature. Some locals are selling carpets, silk and souvenirs but the tourists that flock there are of course mostly Iranian and Azerbaijani.
Some souvenirs at Kandovan Cave Town in Iran.
Aside from the cave town itself, Kandovan offers great views of the nearby mountains.
You also need to savour the views of the nearby mountains at Kandovan. Kandovan also has a main street, a river, some bridges and another side of the town.
There is slightly more to Kandovan than just the cave: a river and a bridge, a main road and a commercial part which comes alive in the summer months. On the other side of the town, there are restaurants which do well in the summer and close for the winter.
There’s no hotels here – you’ll just have to knock on the door nicely and blag a homestay.